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Glossary of Wallpaper Terms
Ornament & Textile Terms |
Manufacturing Processes & Terms |
Paper Terms |
Wallpaper Styles
Ornament and Textile Terms Acanthus
A widely used foliate motif based on the acanthus plant whose leaves are similar to those of
parsley and poppies. In wallpaper design, it often appears scrolled or used as an architectural
embellishment.agate
A type of multi-colored quartz or silicon dioxide.aigrette
A type of hair accessory that was either feather shaped or had a hair fastener from which a bird’s feather could be attached. A spring was often included in the device so that the feather moved with the wearer.aigrette
A type of hair accessory that was either feather shaped or had a hair fastener from which a bird’s feather could be attached. A spring was often included in the device so that the feather moved with the wearer.ambrotype
A photographic technique developed in the 1850s that consists of a negative on glass with the reverse of the glass painted or lacquered black to make the image look positive.amethyst
A transparent quartz that ranges in a variety of purple hues.amphora drops
A decorative gold element in a form inspired by a classical oval Greek vessel, featuring two-handles and tapering to a point at the base. Amphorae were used chiefly to hold oil, wine, or other liquids.Anthemion
A stylized classical motif based on the honeysuckle leaf and flower. Often found in neoclassical and neo-grec wallpapers. Its similarity with the palmette has allowed for the two terms to be used interchangeably.anvil
A heavy iron block with a smooth face upon which metals, usually heated until soft, are hammered into desired shapes.Arabesque
Scrolling interlacing foliage. In French neoclassical wallpapers arabesques are often combined with
drapery, medallions, festoons and urns, creating a vertical form.artois buckles
Oversized shoe buckles popular in the 1770s and 1780s named after the Comte d’Artois. These buckles were worn by both men and women and came in variety of decoration ranging from plain metal to pastes and diamonds.Ashlar Papers
A similar composition to that of the mid-nineteenth century masonry papers, ashlar papers
feature a pattern of rectangular blocks filled and framed with ornament. Unlike masonry papers,
ashlar patterns do not always imitate cut marble or stone.
austrian crystal
A type of colorless glass which resembles rock crystal and contains between 10% and 24% lead oxide. Crystal glass can be colored by adding various metallic oxides to the melt and is used extensively in costume jewelry for beads and stones. In 1892, Daniel Swarovski patented the first machine to cut crystal, allowing the process to become faster and more precise.baby armlet
A fastening device used to gather the sleeves of a baby’s dress.baby armlet
A fastening device used to gather the sleeves of a baby’s dress.Bakelite
Trade name of a dense synthetic resin made from carbolic acid and formaldehyde, patented between 1907 and 1909 by Leo H. Baekeland. Also known as catalin, bakelite can be molded, extruded, or carved, which made it popular for a variety of uses during the 1930s and 40s, including jewelry, kitchenware, and toys. As a thermostat plastic, bakelite will not melt when exposed to heat.base metal
The metal used as the mount or the setting in a piece of jewelry.Bead & Reel
Moulding of small, cylindrical shapes, called reels, alternating with bead shapes. A common
neoclassical ornament.Berlin iron
Cast iron jewelry usually in openwork designs and lacquered black. This jewelry is named after Berlin, Germany, where the technique was believed to have originated in the early nineteenth century.bezel
The metal ring around a stone or object in a piece of jewelry, which holds it into the setting.bogwood
A dark brown fossilized oak commonly found in peat bogs in Ireland.Bouquet
A bunch of flowers gathered in a bow knot, urn, or vase.
brilliance
The brightness of the light that is refracted from a faceted transparent gemstone. When less light escapes through the bottom of the stone and refracts back through the crown, or top, the greater the brilliance.brilliant cut
A circular cut of gemstone that uses facets to minimize the amount of light that escapes through the bottom of the stone therefore increasing the brilliancy of the stone.Brocade
A figured fabric, most often silk, with raised floral or other patterns created by contrasting surfaces or colors. Often made with gold or silver threads. The design appears on the face of the fabric which is easily distinguished from the back because of the short weft threads that appear only in the area of the design.bulla
An ancient jewelry form consisting of a hollow ornament or amulet usually worn around neck.burnisher
A tool, usually with a smooth, slightly convex head, used for polishing.burnishers
A tool, usually with a smooth, slightly convex head, used for polishing.cabochons
A smooth highly polished round cut stone without any facets.cabochons
A smooth highly polished round cut stone without any facets.cameo
A technique in which an image is carved in relief out of a material (usually shell or stone) with multicolored layers.cannetille
Decoration on jewelry consisting of thin gold, silver or metal wires twisted in rosette and scroll patterns.carnelian
A variety of chalcedony, or quartz, that ranges from yellowish-red to reddish-brown. Its hardness lends easily to cutting, carving, and polishing.Cartouche
A elaborately decorated framing element usually composed of c-scrolls and scrolling foliage.
Frequently used in Renaissance and Rococo Revival wallpapers.
chape
The part of a buckle that is used to fasten the buckle to the shoe or garment. It usually consists of the pin, or center hinge, the roll and tongue, which both hinge on the pin and secure the buckle.chasing
A technique of decorating metal in which one indents the surface of the metal to create a design.chatelaine
A form of jewelry worn at a woman’s waist in which chains are suspended with hooks and rings to hang various household items, such as thimbles, eyeglasses and keys.Chevron
A geometric form composed of a horizontal or vertical string of V's used either singly or in a
series to form a zig zag. Also called saw tooth for its tooth-like protrusions.
cipher
A type of sentimental jewel consisting of a faceted rock crystal or paste stone, frequently foiled on the back, that is set over a small gold wire initial or plait of hair. Ciphers were frequently set into cufflinks or gold mourning rings.cipher
A type of sentimental jewel consisting of a faceted rock crystal or paste stone, frequently foiled on the back, that is set over a small gold wire initial or plait of hair. Ciphers were frequently set into cufflinks or gold mourning rings.clip
A piece of jewelry that has the appearance of a brooch, but with a hinged triangular clasp designed to clamp the jewelry to fabric. Clips were designed for dresses and furs, the latter featuring two sharp prongs which secure the ends of a fur stole.Coffering
An architectural motif of recessed compartments or panels creating a three-dimensional effect.
Often used in masonry and ashlar wallpapers.collet setting
A round setting in which the stone is secured around the girdle by a metal band.coral
A hard organic material made of the calcium carbonate skeletons of marine animals that reproduce in colonies to form reefs. The type of coral commonly used in jewelry ranges from pale pink to deep red and in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries was mainly harvested from the Mediterranean.Cornucopia
A horn filled with an abundance of fruit, flowers and wheat, often elaborately scrolled.
Crewelwork
Embroidery made with loosely spun yarn (crewel) usually on a plain weave
fabric.crystal
A type of colorless glass which resembles rock crystal and contains between 10 and 24% lead oxide. Crystal glass can be colored by adding various metallic oxides to the melt and is used extensively in costume jewelry for beads and stones. In 1892, Daniel Swarovski patented the first machine to cut crystal, allowing the process to become faster and more precise.cultured pearl
Pearls that are created naturally, except that a sand or irritant is artificially implanted into the molluskcut steel
A type of decoration consisting of highly polished faceted steel beads mounted onto the base metal with rivets.daguerreotype
A process of photography that creates an image on a copper sheet plated with silver invented by Louis Jacques Mand? Daguerre (1809-1893) in the late 1830s. These photographs were introduced in the United States by Samuel F. B. Morse, inventor of the telegraph, and quickly became a popular method of portraiture.Damask
A woven fabric with an elaborate floral or geometric pattern. The
pattern is distinguished from the ground by contrasting luster and is
reversible.dapping block
A square or rectangular block of steel or wood which has perfect hemispherical indentations in different sizes, used for making domed shapes and round beads.dapping blocks
A square or rectangular block of steel or wood which has perfect hemispherical indentations in different sizes, used for making domed shapes and round beads.demi-parure
A matching set or suite of jewelry consisting of three pieces, usually a pair of earrings and a brooch.Diaper Pattern
A design composed of repeating geometric motifs particularly diamonds and lozenges. Often
embellished with flowers and foliage.dog collar
A style of necklace consisting of a wide band that fits closely to the neck.electroplate
A method of depositing a coating of metal by an electric current, invented by Luigi Galvani. In costume jewelry, base metal is electroplated with gold, silver, or rhodium. The thickness of the coating can vary.Embroidery
The embellishment of fabric with decorative stitches made with yarn,
thread or other flexible materials.en tremblant
A type of decoration in which something is set on a spring or stiff wire that allows it to tremble when the wearer moves.enameled
The technique of decorating gold, silver, or other materials by the use of a vitreous pigment composed of potash and silica, bound with oil, and colored with metallic oxides. Until the 17th century, when transparent enamels were developed, enamel colors were opaque.enameling
The technique of decorating gold, silver, or other materials by the use of a vitreous pigment composed of potash and silica, bound with oil, and colored with metallic oxides. Until the 17th century, when transparent enamels were developed, enamel colors were opaque.engraving
A decoration technique consisting of incising designs, words or patterns into the surface of a material, usually metals or stones.facets
The small, ground, plane surfaces of a cut diamond or other transparent gemstone.filigree
A decoration technique consisting of designs in gold wire, usually on a metal surface.Fleur dis Lis
A stylized French lily with three petals. A heraldic motif used in Medieval style and Gothic
Revival wallpapers.fob
An ornament or charm attached to a watch chain.fobs
An ornament or charm attached to a watch chain.foiled-back paste
A faceted colorless glass stone with a piece of colored foil set behind it in order to imitate colored stones.French jet
A black glass used to imitate jet, usually set in black lacquered settings.French pearls
A type of early simulated pearl consisting of a glass bead filled with wax.French pearls
A type of early simulated pearl consisting of a glass bead filled with wax.Fret
Interlaced lines that meet at right angles. Often used to form a continuous pattern in borders and
confined within a circle or rectangle in Anglo-Japanese papers.
Garland/Festoon
Hanging loops of any combination of fruit, vegetables, leaves, flowers and shells suspended from
architectural friezes or ornamental forms such as bosses or mouldings. Often used in Renaissance
or neoclassical wallpapers.girandole
A style of earring consisting of a stone or design at the top that supports three hanging ornaments.girdle
The circumference or widest part of a cut gemstone.gold-filled
The method by which a sheet of gold is mechanically applied to one or both surfaces of another metal. In the United States, the layer of gold must be equal to at least 1/20th of the total weight of the finished piece of jewelry.goldstone
A man-made glass, typically a reddish brown color with flecks of copper suspended within it. Commonly used as the ground for micromosaics.granulation
The use of small gold beads as decoration to the surface of jewelry either in clusters or linear designs.Greek Key
Similar to the fret pattern, the Greek key is comprised of simple right angled and vertical lines
usually applied as a continuous pattern. A common motif found in neoclassical or neo-grec
wallpapers.Grisaille
Designs or figures in shades of grey, black and white imitating marble ornament. Most popular in
neoclassical and Renaissance style wallpapers.Guilloche
A continuous band of interlacing circles or curved lines usually embellished with rosettes, foliage
or flower forms.gutta percha
A natural latex or rubber derived from the sap of tropical trees used in jewelry and other decorative arts in the second half of the nineteenth century.hallmark
Marks punched onto a piece of silver or gold that identify the place where the object was assayed for purity, the maker, and date.heart-in-hand ring
A finger ring comprising three separate hoops that fit together, the outer two hoops with an engraved pair of clasped hands, and the center hoop with a small heart that fits inside them.heart-in-hand rings
A finger ring comprising three separate hoops that fit together, the outer two hoops with an engraved pair of clasped hands, and the center hoop with a small heart that fits inside them.jade
The general name applied to two minerals, nephrite and jadeite with two distinct compositions and characteristics. Both are hard, compact, and range from light green to emerald green.jet
A black fossilized coal commonly found around the town of Whitby, England, which became a popular material used in mourning jewelry in the nineteenth century.jobbers
Wholesale companies which are hired, by the job, to manufacture jewelry designed by other companies.keeper ring
A ring used to stop another ring from slipping off the finger.knee buckle
A type of buckle used by men to secure the kneeband of breeches, a style of short pants. These buckles were used primarily from the mid eighteenth century to the early nineteenth century.lava cameo
Cameos that were purportedly carved from the volcano stones of Mount Vesuvius, but were actually made of limestone. These cameos were fashionable in the mid-nineteenth century.lavalieres
a type of chain worn around a woman’s neck, from which is suspended one or more gemstones. The name may derive from Louise de La Valli?re (1644-1710), mistress of Louis XIV.maker’s mark
A stamped or engraved mark on a piece of metalware or jewelry that identifies the maker.Medallion
Typically oval or circular reserves filled with stylized foliage, flowers, portraits, or sculpture.
micromosaic
An ancient technique of making patterns or images by setting tiny pieces of colored glass or tesserae into stone or glass backgrounds.miniature
Small paintings usually executed on ivory, metal or porcelain. These paintings were often set in jewelry forms such as bracelets, necklaces and brooches.Moire
A French word meaning 'watered'. A wavy or rippling effect
produced by a finishing process that applies intense but uneven pressure to the fabric.montrose agate
A type of agate with gray and blue striations.mother-of-pearl
The iridescent interior lining of a mussel, oyster, abalone and certain other shellfish. It is commonly used for inlay as well as for buttons, buckles, and jewelry.mourning ring
A ring given to family members and close friends at a funeral and were usually paid for through the estate of the deceased. This practice was popular in the eighteenth and early nineteenth century in America. These rings ranged from plain gold bands to more elaborate designs set with enamel, pearls, diamonds, and miniature paintings. They were often engraved with the name, date of death, and age of the deceased.mourning rings
A ring given to family members and close friends at a funeral and were usually paid for through the estate of the deceased. This practice was popular in the eighteenth and early nineteenth century in America. These rings ranged from plain gold bands to more elaborate designs set with enamel, pearls, diamonds, and miniature paintings. They were often engraved with the name, date of death, and age of the deceased.Needlework
A general term for such work performed with a needle as embroidery,
crewel, some lace work, and knitting.old mine cut
A style of round diamond cut that proceeded the brilliant cut and is sometimes referred to as a cushion cut diamond. It consists of cushion-shaped girdle, thirty-two facets on the crown, an octagonal table, twenty-four facets on the pavilion, and a large culet.onyx
A black chalcedony with layers of white. It is commonly used for cameo carving and mourning style jewelry.palladium
A durable and malleable metal of the platinum group, discovered by William Hyde Wollaston and Smithson Tennant in 1802. Palladium is similar to platinum in color, but is less dense and has a lower melting point. It was first used for jewelry in 1939 as a substitute for platinum when the latter was restricted to military use.Palmette
Derived from the palm leaf, this classical ornament is commonly used in classical revival styles
through the twentieth century.parure
A set of four or more jeweled ornaments decorated en suite, or featuring the same variety of gemstone. The complete set including necklace, bracelets, brooch, and earrings is intended to be worn at the same time. Less than a full set is called a demi-parure.parure
A set of four or more jeweled ornaments decorated en suite, or featuring the same variety of gemstone. The complete set including necklace, bracelets, brooch, and earrings is intended to be worn at the same time. Less than a full set is called a demi-parure.paste
A clear glass of high lead content and brilliance that is cut into stones resembling diamonds. Paste is also known as “strass” after Parisian jeweler, Georges Fr?derique Strass, who invented this technique in the 1730s. Paste can be backed with colored metal foil to simulate different gemstones. It is the forerunner of the glass crystal stones created by Swarovski and other Czech and Austrian manufacturers.pastes
A clear glass of high lead content and brilliance that is cut into stones resembling diamonds. Paste is also known as “strass” after Parisian jeweler, Georges Fréderique Strass, who invented this technique in the 1730s. Paste can be backed with colored metal foil to simulate different gemstones. It is the forerunner of the glass crystal stones created by Swarovski and other Czech and Austrian manufacturers.Patera
An oval or circular form embellished with fluting or rosettes derived from classical decoration.
pave-set
Literally, paving-stone setting. A style of setting in which many small gemstones (usually calibr? or faceted diamonds) are set very close together to cover a large area, concealing the metal underneath. The stones are secured in holes drilled through the metal and held in place by burrs pressed over the edges.pavé-set
Literally, paving-stone setting. A style of setting in which many small gemstones (usually calibré or faceted diamonds) are set very close together to cover a large area, concealing the metal underneath. The stones are secured in holes drilled through the metal and held in place by burrs pressed over the edges.pavilion
The area of a round cut diamond below the girdle.pinchbeck
An alloy of copper and zinc invented around 1720 by Christopher Pinchbeck as a less expensive alternative to gold. Pinchbeck is much lighter than gold and was used in making inexpensive jewelry, including chains, chatelaines, buckles, and clasps.pique point
A style of decoration in which small dots or points of silver or gold are inlaid into tortoiseshell.piqué point
A style of decoration in which small dots or points of silver or gold are inlaid into tortoiseshell.pique pose
A style of decoration in which thin strips of silver or gold are inlaid into tortoiseshell.piqué posé
A style of decoration in which thin strips of silver or gold are inlaid into tortoiseshell.platinum
A rare malleable, strong, and non-corroding white metal that is commonly used in settings for diamonds after the mid-nineteenth century.plique-a-jour
An enamel technique in which a design is outlined in metal and filled in with various colors of transparent enamel. There is no backing behind the enamel, which allows light to enter through the enamel.posy holder
A horn shaped container for holding live flowers, usually features a straight pin and finger ring to secure it.punch
A tool for circular or other piercing, or for stamping an ornamental design onto the surface of the metal.punches
A tool for circular or other piercing, or for stamping an ornamental design onto the surface of the metal.Quatrefoil
A type of Gothic tracery, made of four lobes.repousse
A metal decoration technique in which a raised relief design is created by punching and hammering from the inside of the piece.repoussé
A metal decoration technique in which a raised relief design is created by punching and hammering from the inside of the piece.reticule
A woman's drawstring handbag, usually constructed of net, beading, or brocade.Retro Moderne
A descriptive term for the three dimensional jewelry popular during World War II, attributed to Fran?ois Curiel, head of the jewelry department at Christie’s in the 1970s and 80s. Primarily worked in highly polished colored golds, Retro jewelry is characterized by bold, sculptured geometric shapes and baroque scrolls decorated with colored gemstones, including rubies, aquamarines, and amethysts.rhinestone
Originally used to describe small rock crystal stones found on the shores of the Rhine River. The term has come to mean glass or leaded glass (crystal), cut and faceted to simulate a gemstone, and frequently foiled for increased reflectivity. High quality crystal rhinestones, such as those made by Swarovski, are produced in Austria and the Czech Republic.roll
The loop, usually made of metal, that is hinged to the pin and below the frame of a buckle. It is used to secure the buckle to a shoe, belt or garment.rolled gold
The fusing, or laminating, of a thin layer of gold over a base metal and then rolling it into a sheet. As the thickness of the gold can vary, the quality is expressed in microns if the layer of gold is uniform, otherwise in milli?mes.rose cut
An early style of round cut diamond in which the crown of the stone is faceted to a point and has no table.Rosette
A circular, stylized flower with elements radiating from its center.
sacque gown
A dress style popular in the eighteenth century that appears to hang straight and loose from the shoulders, flowing loosely around the body. Fullness in the back is gathered or pleated into the neckline, creating a "waterfall" of fabric, referred to as the back drape. These gowns were often worn over a decorative corset and/or stomacher and a decorative petticoat.sacque gowns
A dress style popular in the eighteenth century that appears to hang straight and loose from the shoulders, flowing loosely around the body. Fullness in the back is gathered or pleated into the neckline, creating a "waterfall" of fabric, referred to as the back drape. These gowns were often worn over a decorative corset and/or stomacher and a decorative petticoat.Saltpeter
The form of potassium nitrate that occurs naturally, used for oxidizing melting, the process by which non-precious metals are driven off gold or silver.saltpeter
The form of potassium nitrate that occurs naturally, used for oxidizing melting, the process by which non-precious metals are driven off gold or silver.sautoir
An extremely long woman’s neck chain, frequently of beads or seed pearls, which falls below the waist and is worn loosely from the shoulders. A sautoir may have a jeweled pendant or a tassel suspended from the bottom.Scottish “pebble” jewelry
Articles of jewelry, including ring brooches and other accessories for Highland dress that are set with quartz agates or granite found in Scotland. The pieces of multi-colored stone are set in mosaic patterns in silver or gold mountings.seal
A stone or hard material that can have a pattern, initials, crest, or design in intaglio that is used to impress a mark on a soft substance. Seals are often found in rings, fobs and other charms.seed pearl
Tiny natural pearls produced by the Unio mussel that weigh under a quarter of a grain and are less than two milimeters in diameter.seed pearl
Tiny natural pearls produced by the Unio mussel that weigh under a quarter of a grain and are less than two milimeters in diameter.signet ring
A ring set with a seal, which is a stone or hard material that can have a pattern, initials, crest, or design in intaglio that is used to impress a mark on a soft substanceSilesian wire
A type of jewelry made of iron mesh that is believed to have originated in Silesia, Germany, in the late eighteenth century.simulated pearls
Any variety of glass or plastic beads that are coated with many layers of artificial iridescence and resemble natural pearls.Sprig
A simple floral design composed of a small flower and leaves.
stock buckle
A type of buckle used by men in the eighteenth century to secure a style of neck scarf called a stock. These buckles are similar in construction to belt and shoe buckles but were usually rectangular in shape and had buttons attached to the roll that would fit into the buttonholes on the stock.stomacher
A large triangular shaped pin worn by women on the front of the bodice. It was secured by the bust line and usually extended below the waistline. Some were created in interlocking sections, which could be worn together or individually.stomachers
A large triangular shaped pin worn by women on the front of the bodice. It was secured by the bust line and usually extended below the waistline. Some were created in interlocking sections, which could be worn together or individually.Strapwork
Thick twisted, curved and intertwined strips based on ribbon or leather often combined with
arabesques and cartouches. Primarily used in Renaissance Revival wallpapers.
Swag
Often describes the same motif as a festoon but is also used to denote a loop of drapery or beads.
Commonly used in neoclassical wallpapers.Tapestry
A handwoven fabric with decorative designs usually depicting historical
or current scenes. The designs are formed by filling yarns, which are
laced over and under the warp yarns only where needed rather than from
selvedge to selvedge. The effect was later imitated in machine production.
Tiffany Setting
A six-prong open setting for gemstones that was introduced by Charles Louis Tiffany for Tiffany & Co. in 1886.tintype
A photographic process invented in the 1850s where the negative is developed on a sheet of iron therefore making it look like a positive image.topaz
A silicate mineral of aluminum and flourine that is generally yellow, ranging from canary-yellow to orange-yellow. The name “topaz” originally referred to a stone which was found on the Arabian Gulf island of Topazos.tortoiseshell
A organic material used in jewlery consisting of translucent and dark brown to yellow layers obtained from the hawksbill turtle, which was once commonly found around tropical reefs in the Atlantic, Pacific and Indian oceans.Tracery
Ornament composed of cusps and foils. An embellishment of the upper portion of windows in
Gothic architecture.Trellis
Composed of overlapping horizontal and vertical strips or panels that act as a support for plants,
primarily climbing vines.vandyke collar
A collar of linen or lace having a deeply indented or scalloped edge, first seen in the late seventeenth century portraits of Anthony Van Dyck.vandyke collar
A collar of linen or lace having a deeply indented or scalloped edge, first seen in the late seventeenth century portraits of Anthony Van Dyck.vulcanite
A synthetic hard rubber developed in the late nineteenth century to imitate jet.watch pin
A decorative pin, worn on a woman’s bodice, that suspends a small watch from a loop on the reverse.
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